Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
